Chromatic aberration

[Dudds]

Hello fellow creators.

I am very much interested in gathering information on exactly how chromatic aberration occurs within photography. Also of interest would be methods or procedures in how to mitigate this from happening, both pre- and post processing.

This is my first ever conversation, please be kind!

[GaryHart]

Avoiding chromatic aberration starts with having the best quality glass—prime lenses are ideal, but the best zooms are good too. And rather than shooting wide open, stopping down to f/8 to f/11 helps too—I try not to stop down farther than f/11 unless I need to, because the smaller the aperture, the greater the diffraction (an entirely different problem).

In Lightroom Lens Corrections, I usually check the Remove Chromatic Aberration box, but rarely notice much difference. In Photoshop I'll magnify the high contrast edges 100% or more to check for CA—if I see it, I try to adjust it out with the Lens Correction filter. Others might have more elaborate solutions, but since switching to Sony I hardly ever think about CA—possibly because all my lenses are Sony GM or G, and I virtually never shoot wide open. I'll be curious to see what some of the other Artisans have to say about it. 

[DonSmith]

 I concur with Gary, buy really good glass... CA tends to be most pronounced in either very wide-angle or telephoto glass along strong areas of contrast such as a mountain ridge with a vibrant sunrise/sunset sky. With my Sony glass, it is really no longer an issue but I still turn on CA reduction in LR.

[Dudds]

Avoiding chromatic aberration starts with having the best quality glass—prime lenses are ideal, but the best zooms are good too. And rather than shooting wide open, stopping down to f/8 to f/11 helps too—I try not to stop down farther than f/11 unless I need to, because the smaller the aperture, the greater the diffraction (an entirely different problem).

In Lightroom Lens Corrections, I usually check the Remove Chromatic Aberration box, but rarely notice much difference. In Photoshop I'll magnify the high contrast edges 100% or more to check for CA—if I see it, I try to adjust it out with the Lens Correction filter. Others might have more elaborate solutions, but since switching to Sony I hardly ever think about CA—possibly because all my lenses are Sony GM or G, and I virtually never shoot wide open. I'll be curious to see what some of the other Artisans have to say about it. 

Thank you for your input. Most of the information regarding this topic does seem to be a little too intense, however, your instruction is very clear. As a hobby photographer (with aspirations to become a professional) I will be forcing myself to purchase some of the higher GM quality lenses, and putting it all to the test. 

Thanks again.

[Dudds]

 I concur with Gary, buy really good glass... CA tends to be most pronounced in either very wide-angle or telephoto glass along strong areas of contrast such as a mountain ridge with a vibrant sunrise/sunset sky. With my Sony glass, it is really no longer an issue but I still turn on CA reduction in LR.

Thank you for your help. As I said to Gary, investing in some of the higher quality GM lenses will be my next priority. It didn't seem to be that much of a problem when I first started out. But now, I'm building a small customer base and really want to put a lot of effort into quality rather than speed/turnover of product.

Thanks.

[GaryHart]

Thank you for your input. Most of the information regarding this topic does seem to be a little too intense, however, your instruction is very clear. As a hobby photographer (with aspirations to become a professional) I will be forcing myself to purchase some of the higher GM quality lenses, and putting it all to the test. 

Thanks again.

If you have a limited budget, it's usually best to spend your camera money on the best possible glass than it is to upgrade to latest/greatest body. The lenses will serve you for years, and once you have your lenses squared away, whatever your next camera body is will be better than the one you'd have gotten earlier. Also, the resolution of today's top bodies exceeds the resolving power of all but the best glass, so you're actually wasting money if your body is better than your glass. Good luck with your photography!

[IraBlock]

As others have mentioned, chromatic aberration was a problem in the past with older lenses. Spending money on good glass is the simple solution. And yes, wide open or completely closed down to f/22 are the times when you can get CA. The other thing that can contribute is shooting into light sources as they will make the issue seem worse.