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Bird Photography


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Hello @oljon! 

I love to photograph birds. I could probably write a whole book with tips about this genre. There are countless bird photographers more talented than I am, but in terms of the time I have put into the endeavor, I have definitely learned a lot that I love to share with others. A couple years ago I did an online bird photography course for the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, and you can find that there if you're interested. 

Bird photography I venture to say, may be the most challenging of all photography pursuits. It can be devilishly hard and frustrating, but it's also hugely gratifying when you're able to come up with a good shot. You must be willing to be persistent and patient. And above all--know your subject. How to find it, how to read it (so that you can predict behavior--and also avoid some behaviors!), how to photograph it. Wonderful web sites like Cornell Lab of Ornithology's All About Birds (and, even better, Birds of the World, which is by subscription) give detailed information that can help you tremendously. 

Here below I'm going to list a few random, basic tips. You can also find some good resources on the topic at the Audubon web site, which has a whole section devoted to bird photography. That is here:

https://www.audubon.org/photography

Long lenses are important, whether you're working with an all-in-one kit, a dslr or a mirrorless. You really need at least 300mm. 500mm or 600mm is best. Along with teleconverters when you need them. The farther you can stay away, the less you're likely to stress the bird, and the more likely you will be able to get the shot. That is, unless you live in Florida, where birds are silly tame. 

In terms of lighting, your best bet is to position yourself between the sun and the bird, with your shadow pointing at your subject. That being said, some of the most artistic shots are made by side light and back light. Be ready to try all angles. 

The most pleasing light is at the edges of the day: at sunrise and within an hour or two later; and then again a couple hours before sunset and onward. If you have a bright overcast day though, you can shoot all day.

Focus on the eye, always, and get it sharp as best you can. The viewer wants to connect with the bird or other animal through the eye. This is key. 

Try to be at the level of the bird as best you can. If it's a shorebird or wading bird, get as low as possible! 

Use aperture mode or manual mode. Shutter mode works too. Manual mode is best for birds in flight as your exposure will remain the same no matter how your background changes as the bird moves.

Use continuous shooting mode, shoot at the highest frames per second your camera allows, and always be thinking of having your shutter speed up as high as you can manage, given the light. I like to start out at 1/1000 with birds, and will often go up to 1/3200 or 1/4000 for flying birds. A big mistake I see a lot of people make is simply not using a high enough shutter speed. 

Avoid centering the bird in the frame; use the rule of thirds and leave space in front of the bird to walk or fly into. Give your bird room to breathe. 


Pay attention to background distractions; reposition yourself, and/or use a wide aperture like f/4 or f/5.6 to blur the background.

Use your vehicle as a mobile blind; it’s less intrusive to birds. They are more comfortable with you in a car than they are with you on foot.

If you have a silent shutter, use it. Birds don't like loud shutters. 

For more help, see this article I wrote not long ago on how to photograph warblers, for Living Bird magazine:

How To Photograph Fidgety Warblers

I hope this can be helpful. Thank you for your question!

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