LensBrew

You sir have solidified all my reasonings to get the lens.

I'm glad I'm back! I'm even going through a rut right now, but it makes me feel like a pro photographer since everyone goes through it 😁.

I'm working hard on honing those processing skills. But I envy you and everyone who can see images in their mind. I think too technical and take my photos clinically, I only think that about the quality and composition after I'm done shooting.

I'm leaning towards the longer reach VII. But seeing how old this model is, I'm anticipating an update to the series. The possibilities of better specs is endless. I feel I should wait patiently and see what Sony would come up with this year. I'm already excited for next year's 300mm lens, therefore I have high hopes this for year.

That reach is why I'm leaning towards the newest version VII, it would cover more needs as a pocket camera. What also tips me towards the newer model is the AF. I will need it with my kids around.

I believe that would depend on the scene you shoot. The process would be exactly as you replayed to Caroline. I learned a great deal of post-processing landscapes from The Phlog and also started using the TK8 panel (where was this 10 years ago!). You could have any ratio of capture vs process, it would depend on when you would be satisfied with the result. There are some images that I came back to several times, and each time I go in a different path and take different efforts to reach what I like. And I agree, sports is simpler. Yet printing a landscape shot is more wholesome.

I believe there would be an internal memory (like a RAM) that will store and overwrite images when the shutter is half way depressed. If you fully depress the shutter it will add them into your SD card with the images after during the shooting, otherwise it will dump them and keep this "memory" clear for the next set of pre-shot images. I think there is another brand that has this already.

My AirPods pro. In sporting venues, I turn on noise cancellation and they protect my ears. While traveling or just walking and taking pictures, I love to listen to some podcasts. And I have a growing playlist for editing.

I would like a 5 seconds pre-shot capturing. I've missed several sport shots by 1 or 2 seconds. I would love to have the camera pre-shoot before I depress the shutter.

By removing the GPS system from the camera, they reduced the weight and power consumption. I believe this is a great move, especially for people who don't want to take the geolocation of their images. Now that being said, using your phone gps is very easy. You can use any gps app to track yourself, and you can download the routes you've taken during your walks, hikes and any method of transportation. If your camera clock is properly set, you can upload you gps data into lightroom and the images will synch up with respect to the geolocation based on an image time stamp. I believe these 2 videos will make a lot more sense:

I actually went back to photography! I stopped for about 3 years, I've changed my career, moved to a new place and had another boy. I also feel I'm back with newer perspective and passion.

A defuser will be essential to shape the light. I've learned a great deal from Karl Taylor, and he emphasized on using diffusion cones and how they completely change the look of a product. With that you can use continuous lighting and be able to see what the image would look like before you shoot. Make sure you have sturdy tripod and a boom arm for top view shots. Sturdy is the key word here, heavy and expensive tools will save your gear. Finally, tether your work. This will give you instant, high res and large screen, feedback to make any changes.

The is a "write" life cycle to any memory device, similar to a life cycle of a lightbulb. Even if a memory card has a fast read and write speed, it doesn't mean it will have the same life cycle. There is a reason why I use the Sony tough cards, even though they are expensive, it's their life cycle and durability. In camera, the read and write limiting factor will always be the memory card. As Alpha-Van said, swap them with new ones. Try a more standard, stable brand in the world of SD cards..

Strobes are my go to for stills, but for video continuous is the way to go. Since you mentioned you do both, you would need a hybrid. I know Scott Robert Lim would agree to this suggestion: Stella Pro Reflex S. It's a powerful light for video and stills, light and portable too. I believe you also get a large number of triggers that can be used.

You call it fun and make sound very easy Tony. I just can't imagine the amount of effort that goes into it, and I know the result would be out of this world. Would this, though, fall under VR or 3D images? Also, is the pocket wizards useful for remote triggering for sports (i.e., no delay could be achieved)? My fun idea is to shoot silliness of the reserves bench in sports. I noticed even when a team is loosing, they try to cheer themselves up with being silly and laughter. Some do that before the game to lessen their nerves and zone in.

I got both and shot with both, indoors and outdoors. The 70-200 will give you the versatility needed for quick action in sports. You will not lose much with respect to aperture and light for sports. Just make sure you know if your camera has dual gain or it is ISO invariant (this will be your support for noise management). Not to mention, the mk2 is new with the amazing XD linear AF motor. This will be crucial for sports.

I don't believe you would lose anything going for the full spectrum. But you need to check that the sensor can capture the range you desire. I know some sensors are not full spectrum, which makes the full mod a waste of money. If your's is full sensor, then I would go for full spectrum. Just don't forget to buy filters for shooting normal when you need it.

That is amazing. I would love to see what has been captured there.

After the 300mm f/2.8 announcement I was happy to finally "complete" my gear. I mentioned this is an earlier thread, my ultimate prime setup is 35mm, 135mm and 300mm. I can do a lot with only those 3 lenses while traveling. If I would buy extras, I would like an updated 16-35mm GM and 85mm f/1.2.

I'm very excited! I've waited for this for so long, and 2024 is still too far. I shoot sports and I need it. I can also use it when traveling, I like primes a lot, therefore it will be part of a set covering all my needs.

Primes are my favorite and I do prefer them. The answer would depend on the shot that you missed and what lens do you feel would have done the job. 35mm GM is my favorite and capture amazing angles. I would recommend any of the 24mm f/1.4 GM. It's newer than the Zeiss, faster, lighter, a very great lens and only $50 more expensive.

Remember that for the 2x you'll lose 2 stops of light, putting your aperture at f/11-13. It is nice to have if you'll be using a long shutter speed or shooting a very bright subject, like the moon. But the 1.4x is more than enough. I got sharp moon shots with the 100-400mm f/4-5.6 GM with the 1.4x at 560mm and f/8. I also had the a7RIV to punch in. The extra megapixels do help for cropping after.

I plan to go further south. The plan is to shoot everything New Zealand has to offer, and then fly to the south pole to shoot there. It's a big trip and it's far away, that why it's not that high on my bucket list.

In all honesty don, repeated subject deters me from shooting them. I'll try to shoot them one day, only to say I did. But I would like to shoot the Southern Lights and try to get the galaxy core in the same shot if possible. We rarely see shot from the southern hemisphere, so I want to capture those forgotten subjects.

Haha, you'll have to deal with Terrell Lloyd. He's a Canon man through and through, but a great guy. You could actually apply to work with them, he trains a lot of photographers every year and keeps the best with the team. Last I checked they were a team of 12 photographers.