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damian

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  1. @tonygale thanks this is helpful!
  2. Hello I am searching the internet, but I can't find it anywhere, how do I set up auto exposure for video in Sony a7IV, I want to explore this option and see if that works for me, it would be great to have always same exposure in all my shots! Thanks for help.
  3. @tonygale thanks a lot, that is useful!
  4. Hello, I have a problem, should my camera automatically adjust focus when I point at something in AFC mode without pressing the button halfway? Because it does not adjust focus until I press a button halfway. I have a Sony a7IV and 20-70mm f/4 Thank you
  5. @tonygale thank you! it was a beautiful evening!
  6. Happy New Year! I got a chance to take some photos of fireworks in Naples, Florida. Here I results, I was very happy to see Sony a7 IV performing like this!
  7. @CarolineJensen anything for a good shot! 😄
  8. @CarolineJensen thank you! it was fun trip! still healing poison ivy!
  9. Introduction Do you want to learn more about exposure and dynamic range as a photographer? Gaining proficiency with the zone system is a great start to developing a deeper understanding of these photographic aspects. You can read the lighting and tone of a scene with the Ansel Adams zone system. Once you have accomplished this, you can set your exposure with confidence. You will be aware of the photographic rendering of the image. Either in color or monochrome. Why use the Ansel Adams zone system? The zone system can help you improve the art and craft of your photography. It was designed to help photographers achieve the greatest possible tonal scale for their monochrome images. Although its technique was initially designed to work with film that was not as technologically advanced as modern film, its basic approach can benefit all photographers, regardless of the platform they choose. The Ansel Adams zone system The zone system designates brightness values from 0 to 10, where 0 is black, 5 is middle grey and 10 is pure white. These numbers are referred to as zones. To make zones easily distinguishable from other quantities, Adams and Archer normally used Roman rather than Arabic numerals. Ansel Adams and Fred Archer created the zone system, a photographic method for figuring out the best film exposure and development. To become an expert in the field, you must study theory, just like you would in any creative endeavor. When setting your exposures, the zone system method gives you the confidence to take more daring and creative risks. You can more confidently adjust your ISO, shutter speed, and aperture once you comprehend the zone system. Zone Description 0 Pure black I Near black, with slight tonality but no texture II Textured black; the darkest part of the image in which sight details are recorded. III Average dark materials and low values showing adequate texture. IV Average dark foliage, dark stone, or landscape shadows V Middle gray: clear north sky; dark skin, average weathered wood VI Average Caucasian skin; light stone; shadows on the snow in sunlit landscapes VII Very light skin; shadows in the snow with acute side lighting VIII Lightest tone with texture: textured snow IX Slight tone without texture; glaring snow X Pure white: light sources and specular reflections – paperwhite, no detail Ansel Adams’ system of 11 zones was designed to capture the gradation of all the various tonal values you would see in a black and white print, with zone 5 representing middle grey, zone 0 representing pure black (with no detail), and zone 10 representing pure white. In Adam Ansel’s zone system, each zone represents one f-stop exposure. You will also notice there is an 11-stop difference between pure black and pure white and a 7-stop difference between the darkest black with detail and the lightest white with detail. That gives us a good deal of flexibility, which is one of the reasons we enjoy movies. Sadly, it is not possible to adapt his way of photographing to digital photography. When we expose the dark areas of the photo, the risk of overexposure to the light areas will occur. As everyone knows, there is no way to recover overexposed areas in digital photography. We all have heard the phrase for that kind of overexposure: blown-out highlights. The main distinction with analog film is also this. Analog film allows for recoverable overexposure but not underexposure. This is true for digital photography as well up to a point of course. This indicates that digital photography can not use Ansel Adams’s basic rule. Digital photography still can use the Ansel Adams zone system. Instead of exposing for the shadows and developing for the highlights, we need to expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows. It’s a minor adjustment but one that matters greatly. Exposure to the Right (EttR) is akin to this new base rule when it comes to contemporary digital photography. Exposure to the right is simply exposing for the highlights while ensuring that no highlight is blown out. This results in a histogram positioned on the right side of the graph. It is the only way to preserve as much as possible. And avoid having an entirely black image in the process. Without appropriate post-processing, exposure to the right and exposure to the highlights will not produce a usable image. To achieve the ideal contrast, it is imperative to manipulate the shades of gray. Utilizing a raw file format is crucial as it allows you to utilize the digital sensor’s absolute maximum dynamic range. The nine shades of gray from the Ansel Adams zone system can be used once more when post-processing your raw image. Original post: https://coffeewithdamian.com/blog/ansel-adams-zone-system/
  10. Full adventure here: https://coffeewithdamian.com/blog/how-did-i-end-up-on-lombard-st-and-crash-my-drone/ I got a chance to go to San Francisco for one day and test my new a7IV and DJI mini drone, the city is pure magic!
  11. damian

    NEW CAMERA!

    @bmcdonough thank you! It is so good!
  12. damian

    NEW CAMERA!

    My new puppy needs a proper introduction, so I decided to do a nice photoshoot, Ladies and Gentlemen let me introduce Sony a7IV!!!
  13. There are many great techniques that allow us to add movement or other elements of visual interest to our images during capture. Some of these include multiple exposures, multiple flash exposures, or panning photography. Dragging the shutter while using the flash is one such trick and it’s not difficult to use but you must know a few things. Let me show you! What is shutter drag? Shutter dragging combines flash, and freezes our subject with a slow shutter speed to capture motion blur. When shooting in low light conditions, a slower shutter speed allows more light to reach the sensor to create an exposure. It also captures the movement of anything in the frame, which we call motion blur. If we don’t use a tripod while taking long exposure shots, they can also be blurry from camera shake. With the shutter drag, we intentionally introduce a camera shake or motion blur into the shot for a creative effect. Shutter dragging is a two-step process for each exposure. First, the flash freezes the subject in the frame so that they are sharp. Now move the camera while the shutter is open to create a light path with the background light. It’s a great combination of sharp and soft. What gear do I need for shutter dragging? For shutter dragging, we don’t need that much equipment. The important things are given below: A camera with manual shooting mode A speedlite flash ( A wide-angle lens (Sony 16-35mm f/2.8) Editing software Sometimes, we need to shoot in low-light conditions with obvious ambient light in the background. Step 1: Choose the aperture. It should be around f/5.6-8.0 to make sure that we have a wide depth of field. Step 2: Set up shutter speed. Now we need to choose a shutter speed slow enough to allow our subject to move after the flash fires. This is variable, I would recommend starting with 1/6s. Step 3: Set up ISO and flash power. Because it is so dark usually ISO would be around 800-1000, and flash at 1/64, 1/128 as you don’t want to use full power right in front of your subject. Step 4: Choose the subject. Need to treat it like a normal shot because it will be the main focus of my image. Step 5: Take a Photo. When the flash fires, it records the first pose our subject has. After that, move your camera so the lights in the background get blurred. Step 6: Make adjustments. Now that we have a test Shot, we can evaluate how the image looks and adjust our shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and flash power. Step 7: Take some more photo Need to take as many pictures as possible to make sure we get the results we want. Sometimes, magic happens, and get it in the first few frames, but other times it might not. So we should continue taking pictures until we are confident about the results. We can say that shutter dragging is all experimental. Because sometimes we get results that are disappointing or don’t look right. It can happen to anyone. So, if this happens to you, these tips and ideas can be helpful. Light trails aren’t very long If the light traits are too short, just speed up the shutter speed, or increase the movement of the camera. Do the images look a bit blurry and confusing? If the images are blurry or confusing, try using a slower shutter speed first, or increase aperture. Also, remember to have setting of your flash set up to the front curtain! Is your subject blown out? If the flash is a little too powerful, try reducing its power output or decreasing ISO. The light trails are obscuring my subject If you Drag your camera across your subject, it can draw light trails over them. Instead, spinning or twisting the camera can help. Is shutter dragging good for different situations? Flash freezes the subject, which means keeping the camera still but letting the motion in the background do the work. It could be passing traffic or any moving subject with lights.
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