IraBlock

I love the look of the 24mm 1.4 Gmaster. The 24mm length means i can photograph someone in fairly close and get a feeling of their environment, which really tells the story of the subject.

It is very easy to be vocal on the internet and criticize the work of others, and when it comes to art as a creator you set your own standards and esthetics. If the criticism is informative you will know it, if it is just the rantings of someone that wants attention you will see that also.

You really don't want to lose the extra light with the 2x if you already have the 1.4x TC. With extremely long lenses you need a high shutter speed, and losing the two stops of light will force you to either a higher ISO or a slower shutter speed.

Great choice - you will love the image quality!!

San Marino looks great! I have never been there - for me Bhutan is the place.

Strobes can pack a lot of power outdoors, especially using high speed sync. As a newcomer it may be easier to work with continuous light.

Lately as a discipline I have been working as much as possible with Prime Lenses. Working with primes forces you to develop a style and look to your images. I love the 24mm 1.4 Gmaster and the 135mm 1.8 Gmaster, and I know it is quit a stretch from 24mm to 135mm, but I am doing my best to make it work. If you had two primes to work with, what would you choose? #FE 24mm F1.4 GM (SEL24F14GM) #FE 135mm F1.8 GM

Tony, fantastic idea.. Can't wait to see the results.

I am going back to Cuba at the beginning of 2023, that and Bhutan are my favorite places.

Good idea. And i find the chest strap important to help control the load distribution.

If you are just starting in digital photography, like most people you look at the image review on the monitor after you take a photo. This is a great help to check your composition, but do not depend on it for correct exposure. Remember your eyes adjust for the ambient light, if you are shooting at night or in a dark room you eyes dilate. As a result the image on your screen will appear brighter. And in bright light your pupils constrict so the image may appear darker. The best thing to do is to learn how to read the histogram that your camera produces for the image. You can see the histogram by toggling through the display screen on your Sony camera. There are many tutorials on line about reading histograms. Learning histograms will also help you in post production when adjusting highlight, shadows and mid tones.

I still use front filters. It is more complicated on some of the wider lenses, but i still worry about putting internal filters on the front of the sensor, I am afraid of scratching it. It is very efficient for NDs but it won't work with polarizers.

I find the print market all over the place. I used to sell my prints for a good rate, but now there are many inexpensive prints on the market, especially the wall art market. You can sell for less money if you have an efficient system in place and if you can do some volume.

My 24mm GM lens does nice sun stars. I have not tried my 24-70mm GM II yet but i will give it a try soon.

Kando has always been a great learning experience. Each of the participants bring a bit of knowledge that helps me learn and understand something new. Now that things are getting back to normal i hope Kando continues.

I had one of my older Sony bodies converted to Infrared and it's pretty amazing. Is anyone else shooting with an infrared camera, and what type? I understand there are a few different types of conversions.

There is a polarizer from HY Revo Ring that has a spring loaded mount that will fit many different sized lenses. Check it out

I too like the new 24-70mm . But if i want to go light and small the 40mm compact lens is great.

AI has opened a new world - I don't know whether it is photography or not. I think of it more as illustration, the lines are crossing very quickly.!

The photos that have clouds and mood are the best !!

Deep down every photographer i know is a 'bag junkie'. I have given away a lot of bags over the last few years and i still have a closet filled with them. It seems that every assignment i take i find a reason to get a new bag. The question on every trip is do i take a shoulder bag or do i take a backpack, and there are many times when i take both! The last few years I have been in love with Tenba backpacks and shoulder bags, they are well constructed and very well thought out. If i am working in a city i tend to use a shoulder bag where i can grab a lens very quickly. When i am doing more walking and hiking i lean towards a backpack. Some of the new Tenba backpacks have a 'side' entry pocket where you can grab a camera or lens without taking the pack off or opening the main panel. This is great, but of course it has added to my dilemma in choosing a bag as it will work for city photography. The other decision to be made is what bag to use when you are transporting all your equipment to a location when you are on a plane versus the actual smaller bag you will be shooting with. Since i carry a lot of Sony lenses, (just like bags i can't always decide what lenses to take 😁) traditionally i use a rolling bag for the plane and then switch to a more mobile carrying method either backpack or shoulder bag when i am working. I will ask and expect to get many varied replies - WHAT BAG DO YOU USE

Beautiful lighting, they all are different, it is hard to pick the best !!!

You have to shoot constantly to develop your eye... Great idea

Very nice, great details

There is firmware upgrade for some of the lenses when used on the a7rv, including your 200-600